I found out that I get better results at low shutter speed when I do this:

1.) Breath OUT (not IN) and stop breathing before shooting. Breathing out results in more relaxed muscles and therefor less tremor.
2.) Go on continous mode and shoot a couple of takes. Usually one of this will be optimal.
3.) Of course use any supporting You can get to reduce motion ...

After getting much needed assistance from cyrus, many months ago and taking 2, near full days, practicing and attempting to apply the suggestions for my camera and sensor (much different than the one cyrus has) I've succeeded. I am now able to take photos from ISO 100-1600 without objectionable noise. I don't even think about it anymore. The settings are just natural. I'm spending so little time in PS these days, I'm begining to loose my edge with the application.

I would add a photo but the button for adding an image doesn't allow me too.

Guenter mentioned this in MIMS: Shake reduction systems in macro lenses are rare. There is a Nikon lens I think, but for canon ...
AND: shake reduction PLUS good techniques will be better than any of these alone, right?

The strange thing with the Micro Nikkor 105mm VR lens is that the VR is essentially ineffective at 1:1 and, as Nikon puts it: "As the reproduction ratio increases from 1/30, the effects of vibration reduction gradually decrease." They even suggest (can't find the place though) to turn it off for macro work.

I don't do extreme macro work but one feature I discovered is quite useful when the subject is moving slightly (like a flower moved by wind). I believe the following is true for all Nikon cameras. When set to AF-S, and with focus priority on, the camera will nevertheless activate focus-tracking IF subject motion is detected during the AF acquisition mode. Keeping the shutter halfway pressed the camera will not release until the subject is in focus again. Works amazingly well, but of course, you have no control if the focus point is were you want it. And as with any subject movement, your shutter speed needs to be short enough, 1/30s won't do in that case.

Guenter pointed out that breathing OUT and holding your breath is better than doing the same while breathing IN. One often overlooked item is shutter release, just make sure you press that button as gently as possible. I usually do bursts, like Guenter suggested too, to give lady luck a better chance. And I also feel that a heavier, bulkier camera is better and more stable (of course not so heavy that your arms are shaking already from just holding it). I usually shy away from external supports, too often the have introduced vibrations I had not been aware off.

I sure would like to know more about what Dave learned and what techniques he is using to not have to deal with noise.

Just went out and took this photo, I forgot to convert the file to sRgb so you know what that means. I took this at ISO 800, no changes. ~
Shot with NIKON D2Xs at 2007-07-08


Shot at 2007-07-08

Interesting. Well done getting them clean shots at 1/30 with 180mm. For the bulk of my shots getting into a well braced position like that isn't possible. I've always used my knee when I could though.
I use the same breathing I did while shooting precision rifles. I squeeze the shutter on a slow exhale. For me, i seem to do better using my middle finger for the shutter release rather than my pointer. May be a balancing thing, but it don't seem like i move the camera as much. Sometimes I'll hold my breath for a shot but not often.
I just got a 70-300mm VR lens and placed a TC and tubes on it and the VR still works and can easily hold unbraced shots at 1/30th. Not the magnification I've been shooting but I hope to get nice natural light shots and make dragonflies a ton easier. It's filling the frame with about 2 inches from 6-7 feet away as it is now.
Good tips.

On my Canon S3 IS I have a setting where I can set the camera to shoot a number of shots at a specified shot per second. Say.. one click every two seconds. Its similar to using the timer. This saves the breathing exercises and the movement when you press the shutter button. Of course, it helps to have the camera supported in some way.

I have a small table top tripod. The tripod also has a velcro strap to attach to a post or any useable support.

These techniques work if I have a stationary subject, that needs long exposure. (night scenes). Otherwise, the above are all good hints.

Most of my macro shots are taken standing up, where it is much harder to steady the camera, so I usually use flash as the main light source. Interestingly though I've been able to get reasonable results at ISO 3200 using natural light with fill-flash. The main problem I have with high ISO is that post-sharpening doesn't work so well, since it tends to sharpen the noise rather than the detail.